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One of the more unusual specialties of the Japan Alps is horsemeat, which is also known colloquially as sakura due to its color. Horse is served in a variety of preparations, from raw sashimi-style (basashi) to sakura nabe, shabu shabu, sushi, and grilled. Matsumoto in particular is famed for the quality of its horsemeat. Oyaki are Nagano’s answer to Chinese-style steamed buns (nikuman) popular in convenience stores, from street vendors, and as a late-night snack: steamed fermented buckwheat dough encases your choice of sweet or savory fillings, including local vegetable nozawana, pumpkin, eggplant, kinpira, sweet bean, or fruit (including Nagano apples). This recipe from Just One Cookbook will help you to make the perfect oyaki at home.  To make your own oyaki, check out Justonecookbook.com/oyaki Nakasendo was an Edo-era “highway” connecting Tokyo (Edo) with Kyoto; many of the 69 stations along the Nakasendo have gone to great lengths to preserve the unique architecture of the road’s many inns, watering holes (literal and figurative), and unique Edo-era charms. One of the best-preserved sections is in the Kiso Valley between Tsumago (Nagano) and Magome (Gifu); the 8-kilometer trail, which leads through sections of forests, fields, and waterfalls, takes approximately 2 to 3 hours to hike. Another well-preserved post town is Narai Juku (Nagano); the 34th station along the Nakasendo is approximately one hour from Matsumoto Station and offers a 1.2 km-long section of beautifully preserved shops, inns, temples and shrines in addition to a striking wooden bridge (Kiso Ohashi). Interestingly, Taihoji Temple contains a defaced statue that many consider to be the Virgin Mary, hinting at the presence of “hidden Christians” in this part of Japan. From Matsumoto Station or Nagano Station, take JR Chuo line to Narai (local train only; limited express trains do not stop at Narai Juku). Be aware that there are only several trains a day that stop at this station. If you are planning on hiking the section between Tsumago and Magome, check train and bus schedules in advance to avoid surprises.

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